• There is an island in the Baltic Sea off the western coastof Estonia that holds a special place in my heart. It is awonder of natural beauty with fields of wildflowers,rocky shores, fishing boats bobbing in the salty mist,and strong women. This is where my mother was born andlived until, at age 11, a war forced her family to escape by boat in the night.Whenever I visit Saaremaa, I face the wind, stare out across the coldblue sea and think about their perilous journey.

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